Thursday, December 17, 2009

Scottish Weddings – What Does The Groom Wear?

DALBEATTIE, UNITED KINGDOM - MARCH 11:  Laura ...Image by Getty Images via Daylife

Prince Charlie Coatee And Vest
This is one of the most formal jackets in the highland-wear armoury. It consists of a jacket and vest (waistcoat) which are usually made from Barathea, a woollen cloth. The jacket is most commonly black but there are several other colours now on the market including purple, blue, mulberry and green. The jacket is cut to just below the “natural waist” at the front and has a flap at the back which extends down to around the top of the buttocks. The vest is also made of Barathea and is often cut with a lapel instead of a straight edge. The jacket and waistcoat are adorned with silver buttons with there being up to 20 buttons on the jacket and three on the vest. The jackets lapels are often made in a satin finish.

There are various theories where this garment came from but there is no doubt that Bonnie Prince Charlie would never have worn one. It would be prudent to believe there was some military background to it.

Winged Collared Shirt
With this formal wear it is traditional to wear a winged-collared shirt. Some people nowadays do wear an ordinary shirt but for the sake of looking better a winged collared shirt is better.

Bow-Tie
It is most common for a black bow-tie to be worn although it is becoming more common for the groom to wear a bow-tie made form the same tartan that his kilt is.

Plaid
There is sometimes a lot of confusion with this garment. The dictionary definitions give it as “fabric woven in a pattern or tartan design”. It is very commonly used in North America as another word for tartan. The definition of the garment is from the Gaelic word “plaide” meaning “blanket”. This is the piece of cloth that you can see hanging over the left shoulder in the picture on the right. In my opinion this is a must as it sets the groom apart from the rest of the male wedding party.

The plaid that you can see is called a fly plaid and generally hangs from around the chest area to just below the kilt. It is a piece of cloth that is generally around 12” x 55” (depending on kilt-maker). You can wear larger plaid (like I did), for instance the pipers plaid (like I did) but this is not recommended personally on a hot July day !!!

Plaid Brooch
This is the metal (usually pewter) brooch that attaches the plaid to the jacket. They come in many shapes and sizes from the very simple to the very ornate with gems, sometimes actual Cairngorms, in the centre.

Heather Button Hole
The groom often wears a heather button hole which is usually placed just to the side of the plaid brooch.

Kilt Belt & Buckle
Traditionally when wearing the Prince Charlie jacket and vest there is no belt and buckle worn as they really can’t be seen. The jacket and vest come lower than the natural waist and therefore cover the belt which is worn at the natural waist. The natural waist is best described as a line through the belly button.

In more modern times people are tending to wear a belt and buckle with the Prince Charlie. My personal opinion for this is so that the jacket and vest can be removed later in the proceedings after all the official ceremony is finished.

Sporran
This comes from the Gaelic word “sporran” meaning “purse”. There are several types of sporran, dress, semi-dress and day/leather sporran. In this case the groom would wear the most formal, that being dress. These are more widely varied than tartans themselves. They are made from an animal skin front (most commonly sealskin) which have ornamental tassels hanging from it. They have a metal top (cantle) designed to tie in with any belt worn. The sporran is hung around the natural waist by means of a metal chain and leather straps with the chain passing through the belt loops at the back of the kilt.

The Kilt
Arguably the most important garment of them all. The kilt is traditionally made of about 8 yards of tartan cloth that why they are so expensive. When you consider that there is only about two yards that actually wrap around you then there is about 6 yards of the cloth that is used fro the pleating at the back.
The kilt is worn around the “natural” waist. This is not where you would wear a pair of trousers (on top of the hips). This is around the belly button, about 2 to three inches higher up than normal trousers. It is worn about ¼” below the top of the knee.
A standard kilt from a good kilt-maker will have belt loops at the back, and come with three straps an buckles which are the means that it is put on. They also come in different weights of cloth. I would tend to choose the heavier ones as they are better wearing but for those in hotter climates the lighter weight may be better.
There are many kilts on the market today with some kilts, commonly known a casual kilts, made from much less cloth. These do not have the same amount or depth of pleats at the back so you do not get the “swing” that the traditional kilts get. There are many kilts that are now made in the Far East. I will keep my opinions to myself but the old adage stands firm. You get what you pay for beware!!
Remember also the tartan you wear may show your allegiances!!!!

Kilt Pin
This is a small pin that is worn on the bottom right of the kilt. It is usually worn about 2 to 3 inches in from the fringe and about 5 inches up from the bottom of the kilt.
There are a huge amount of designs available but my personal favourite is the ones in the shape of a sword (claymore) which was derived from the Gaelic word meaning “great sword”. These also have a clan crest on them.

Kilt Hose
These are the long socks that are worn up to the bottom of the knee. They again come in many designs from plain to very ornate. They are generally made from wool so beware when washing although there are now kilt hose that are made from wool blends that do not shrink.

Kilt Hose Flashes
These are the garters that hold up the kilt hose and are worn below the turn up of the sock. They have a piece of cloth sewn on them which protrude out of the turn up on the sock. This cloth can be of the same tartan as the kilt or they can be self coloured as long as they compliment the tartan of the kilt.

Sgian Dubh
The Scotmans’ dirk. This comes from the Gaelic “black knife” and is worn in the right sock. Again ornamentally they come in many many styles with jewelled tops, with stag antler handles and many more.
Please check the law of the country that you are wearing it in. In Scotland the carrying of knives for no lawful purpose is illegal but gives an exemption for “ceremonial” knives.

Ghillie Brogues
These are the shoes with the long laces. The laces are crossed once over the foot, intertwined three times in front of the leg and tied in a bow over the shin.

Undergarments
The answer to the age old question, “What’s under a Scotsman’s kilt?” Well I guess you’ll have to ask the next Scotsman you see wearing a kilt !!

Well that about does it for a highland formal wedding outfit. Don’t hesitate to contact the author if there is anything that he could help with.

At any rate have a wonderful day at your ceremony!!!

By: Sreve Dickson

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Scottish Kilts from The Tartan Box

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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Scottish Kilt - One of Scotland's Proud Inheritances

MacArthur tartan, as published in the Vestiari...Image via Wikipedia

The Scottish kilt in its present form which we know and adore, would not survived if it were not because of the military. If you search at the history of Kilt, you would see that the article of clothing would have lost to Scotland and the rest of the entire world if it were not because of the Scottish regiments of Scottish.

For a concise look at the history of Scottish and how it formed the survival of kilt, we want to focus on the result of Battle of Culloden, which was the final combat to be fought on the soil of British.

In 1746 the government of British passed into law called the Act of Proscription. This operation was planned to put a final to the right of Clansmen's to hold arms, so to remove their capability to uprising, and was the earliest of many measures intended to crush the system of Clan.

This segment of the operation created the wearing of the Scottish kilt, and certainly all checkered illegitimate in the Scotland, its endeavor to further manage the Clans and crush their Gaelic traditions.

The punishment for breaking this latest law were strict, six months custody for the first offense, for the second, exile to colonies for more than seven years.

By that instance the Scottish kilt was more or less forgotten as a type of dress in the Highlands of Scottish. These recently formed Regiments of Scottish were sent to battle in disagreement which takes place at the time in India, and in North America.

If you are interested in kilts you might also like to find tweed jacket


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Scottish Culture - The Key to Understanding Scotland

Front of Glasgow CathedralImage via Wikipedia

Scotland is definitely one of the few countries its people could be proud about. As the rest of European nations with rich history and inheritance, Scotland has particular traits that draw millions of citizens in the country every year. There isn't one significant thing that disconnects Scotland from another country, however once you have visit you will appreciate why so several people go in Scotland every year. And, understanding Scottish culture requires more than reading books: it is much better when you immerse yourself with people who proudly represent Scotland.

The great way to make sure you obtain the most out of your vacation is to search hotels in the locality of the famous sights. The arrangement of culture and arts of country means the celebration like the Festival of Edinburgh International and Scottish culture, which is one of world's biggest and popular festivals and on a lesser scale several small towns and cities have habitual festivals and gala days. There are several musical, arts and liberal events therefore - there is always something for anyone.

When booking, keep in mind that site is significant since you don't like to spend more time to travel than seeing the sights. There are several hotels accomplish around the key cities and bounty are centrally situated in cities like Edinburgh and Glasgow so searching the perfect hotel for you would be fairly simple however try and reserve in advance to look the great priced deals.

Like all the hotels there is substitute accommodation like the holiday cottages are frequently the ideal choice of guest for the reason that you can dip yourself better in the Scottish culture. Either you like luxury, reasonable, contemporary or classic style you will look what you are searching for by browsing online.

Blanket Shop with Scottish Blankets and kilt hire London might be also interesting to you!

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Thursday, May 28, 2009

Kilt Dance

Scottish national dancing at the 2005 Skagit V...Image via Wikipedia

Words 'Scotland' and 'dance' for many immediately conjure up mental pictures of swinging kilts. These aren't just cliches: since the 18th century, dance has always had an important place at all levels of Scottish society and even today, it is still very much a living tradition.

There are generally three different styles of Scottish traditional dance: ceilidh dancing, country dancing and Highland dancing

The first one is the most accessible form of our traditional dancing. The basic dances are all fairly easy to master, are few in number and comprise mostly round-the-room and set dances. The emphasis is firmly on having fun and being sociable - there is none of the regulation and competition that marks the other forms of traditional dance and the dress-code is invariably 'come-as-you-are'. Key ingredients of a good ceilidh include enthusiasm, a good band, and usually - but not essentially - drink. Ceilidh dancing is taught to schoolkids across the country so most Scots grow up with it, which is no doubt why it's a regular feature of weddings and other social gatherings, such as Burns Suppers. In the past decade or so, however, Glasgow and Edinburgh have witnessed an explosion in the ceilidh's popularity as a weekend entertainment and have seen a number of ceilidh clubs emerge.

The next one - Scottish country dancing is much more organised affair than ceilidh dancing. The dances involve combinations of up to five couples, usually arranged in lines facing each other or in squares, moving through a repeating series of prescribed steps and movements which eventually ends with all the dancers back in their original formation. Individual dances - of which there are literally thousands, with new ones being created all the time - are often quite intricate and require a fair degree of technique, mobility and grace.

Unlike the freeform ceilidh dancing, this dancing is strictly regulated and standardised. Under the gaze of the Royal Scottish Country Dance Society, the form and movements of each dance are agreed and published so that its 25,000 members across the globe learns the authorised version. While this may stifle individual creativity, it does allow people to come together from all over the world and enjoy the common language of dance. It is important to have a proper uniform, that migh also improve a self confidence, especially for beginners. The easy way of having a nice suit is a kilt hire.
In contrast to ceilidh and country dancing, Highland dancing is performed competitively, usually by youngsters. The dances are mostly solo performances, where the emphasis is on the precise execution of intricate footwork. The standard of competitive performance is very high and thanks to a number of regulatory bodies in different countries, competitions often have an intenational flavour.

By: Caroline Anderson

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

www.highlandstore.com

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Scottish Weddings – What Does The Groom Wear?

A traditional waistcoat, to be worn with a two...Image via Wikipedia

Prince Charlie Coatee And Vest

This is one of the most formal jackets in the highland-wear armoury. It consists of a jacket and vest (waistcoat) which are usually made from Barathea, a woollen cloth. The jacket is most commonly black but there are several other colours now on the market including purple, blue, mulberry and green. The jacket is cut to just below the “natural waist” at the front and has a flap at the back which extends down to around the top of the buttocks. The vest is also made of Barathea and is often cut with a lapel instead of a straight edge. The jacket and waistcoat are adorned with silver buttons with there being up to 20 buttons on the jacket and three on the vest. The jackets lapels are often made in a satin finish.

There are various theories where this garment came from but there is no doubt that Bonnie Prince Charlie would never have worn one. It would be prudent to believe there was some military background to it.

Winged Collared Shirt
With this formal wear it is traditional to wear a winged-collared shirt. Some people nowadays do wear an ordinary shirt but for the sake of looking better a winged collared shirt is better.

Bow-Tie
It is most common for a black bow-tie to be worn although it is becoming more common for the groom to wear a bow-tie made form the same tartan that his kilt is.

Plaid
There is sometimes a lot of confusion with this garment. The dictionary definitions give it as “fabric woven in a pattern or tartan design”. It is very commonly used in North America as another word for tartan. The definition of the garment is from the Gaelic word “plaide” meaning “blanket”. This is the piece of cloth that you can see hanging over the left shoulder in the picture on the right. In my opinion this is a must as it sets the groom apart from the rest of the male wedding party.

The plaid that you can see is called a fly plaid and generally hangs from around the chest area to just below the kilt. It is a piece of cloth that is generally around 12” x 55” (depending on kilt-maker). You can wear larger plaid (like I did), for instance the pipers plaid (like I did) but this is not recommended personally on a hot July day !!!

Plaid Brooch
This is the metal (usually pewter) brooch that attaches the plaid to the jacket. They come in many shapes and sizes from the very simple to the very ornate with gems, sometimes actual Cairngorms, in the centre.

Heather Button Hole
The groom often wears a heather button hole which is usually placed just to the side of the plaid brooch.

Kilt Belt & Buckle
Traditionally when wearing the Prince Charlie jacket and vest there is no belt and buckle worn as they really can’t be seen. The jacket and vest come lower than the natural waist and therefore cover the belt which is worn at the natural waist. The natural waist is best described as a line through the belly button.

In more modern times people are tending to wear a belt and buckle with the Prince Charlie. My personal opinion for this is so that the jacket and vest can be removed later in the proceedings after all the official ceremony is finished.

Sporran
This comes from the Gaelic word “sporran” meaning “purse”. There are several types of sporran, dress, semi-dress and day/leather sporran. In this case the groom would wear the most formal, that being dress. These are more widely varied than tartans themselves. They are made from an animal skin front (most commonly sealskin) which have ornamental tassels hanging from it. They have a metal top (cantle) designed to tie in with any belt worn. The sporran is hung around the natural waist by means of a metal chain and leather straps with the chain passing through the belt loops at the back of the kilt.

The Kilt
Arguably the most important garment of them all. The kilt is traditionally made of about 8 yards of tartan cloth that why they are so expensive. When you consider that there is only about two yards that actually wrap around you then there is about 6 yards of the cloth that is used fro the pleating at the back.
The kilt is worn around the “natural” waist. This is not where you would wear a pair of trousers (on top of the hips). This is around the belly button, about 2 to three inches higher up than normal trousers. It is worn about ¼” below the top of the knee.
A standard kilt from a good kilt-maker will have belt loops at the back, and come with three straps an buckles which are the means that it is put on. They also come in different weights of cloth. I would tend to choose the heavier ones as they are better wearing but for those in hotter climates the lighter weight may be better.
There are many kilts on the market today with some kilts, commonly known a casual kilts, made from much less cloth. These do not have the same amount or depth of pleats at the back so you do not get the “swing” that the traditional kilts get. There are many kilts that are now made in the Far East. I will keep my opinions to myself but the old adage stands firm. You get what you pay for beware!!
Remember also the tartan you wear may show your allegiances!!!!

Kilt Pin
This is a small pin that is worn on the bottom right of the kilt. It is usually worn about 2 to 3 inches in from the fringe and about 5 inches up from the bottom of the kilt.
There are a huge amount of designs available but my personal favourite is the ones in the shape of a sword (claymore) which was derived from the Gaelic word meaning “great sword”. These also have a clan crest on them.

Kilt Hose
These are the long socks that are worn up to the bottom of the knee. They again come in many designs from plain to very ornate. They are generally made from wool so beware when washing although there are now kilt hose that are made from wool blends that do not shrink.

Kilt Hose Flashes
These are the garters that hold up the kilt hose and are worn below the turn up of the sock. They have a piece of cloth sewn on them which protrude out of the turn up on the sock. This cloth can be of the same tartan as the kilt or they can be self coloured as long as they compliment the tartan of the kilt.

Sgian Dubh
The Scotmans’ dirk. This comes from the Gaelic “black knife” and is worn in the right sock. Again ornamentally they come in many many styles with jewelled tops, with stag antler handles and many more.
Please check the law of the country that you are wearing it in. In Scotland the carrying of knives for no lawful purpose is illegal but gives an exemption for “ceremonial” knives.

Ghillie Brogues
These are the shoes with the long laces. The laces are crossed once over the foot, intertwined three times in front of the leg and tied in a bow over the shin.

Undergarments
The answer to the age old question, “What’s under a Scotsman’s kilt?” Well I guess you’ll have to ask the next Scotsman you see wearing a kilt !!

Well that about does it for a highland formal wedding outfit. Don’t hesitate to contact the author if there is anything that he could help with.

At any rate have a wonderful day at your ceremony!!!

By: Sreve Dickson

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Scottish Kilts from The Tartan Box

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How To Sew A Kilt - Short Introduction

Two different types of kilt pins. On the left ...Image via Wikipedia

Every real fun of Scottish culture should have at least one kilt in his collection. They are usually being bought in some good stores with that kind of garments. But what has a greater value to us than the stuff that we do by ourselves?

That's probably the most important reason to sew kilt not to buy it. It might be also a great hobby which takes quite a lot of time but gives satisfaction and a lot of joy. There are only 8 steps to do that and few things to have.

Things that you will surely need are (most of them obvious): time, needle, thread, straight pins, safety pins, tape measure, a large kilt pin, 2-3 leather straps and buckles, lots of tartan material and chalk. Optional but rather recommended to make work more pleasant and effective are: basting tape, sewing machine, lining material.

Before we start sewing we have to make a measurements. Important in this case are: waist, hips, and length. To obtain your waist measurement, simply wrap a tape measure around the narrowest part of your waist and note the measurement. Because of the amount of material that will thicken the top of the kilt, it is advised to add a few centimetres to the waist measurement to ensure that it won't become too tight.

While measuring hips, there is an opposite site – wrapping the tape measure around the widest part of your hips and seat and record the measurement. The hip measurement is the most essential of all Again, because the kilt pleats will make the material thicker, add a few centimetres to the measurement. As it comes to length kilts are traditionally worn to mid-kneecap length, but the more modern look is to have the kilt reach to just above the knee. An easy way to get a good kilt length is to kneel on the floor and measure from your waist to the floor. And you have your length!

As its only an introduction to sewing a kilt I must tell you that rest of activities you will need to do are: translating the numbers (it is the most complicated things to do, while you have to do a lot of math), cutting, forming the shape of the kilt, pleating, lining.

This article was to encourage sewing one or two scottish kilts - one for a friend. Cause when you do that it's just having a harris tweed jacket and ghillie brogues and you are ready to conquer the whole world! With faith in your heart, smile on your face and a self made kilt on your....

Examples of black kilt and tartan ones you can find at Highlandstore.com . Take a look what you can buy...or sew by yourself.

More about sewing kilts you can find at bbc.co.uk.

By: michal costaminnego

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Examples of black kilt and scottish kilts you can find at www.highlandstore.com. Take a look what you can buy...or sew by yourself.

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Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Baby Blankets – A Perfect Gift For The Newborn

Opening Gifts with Uncle ChuckImage by jusgre via Flickr

A baby brings with it a lot of joy and happiness to everybody around. As parents and well-wishers, we want to surround the newborn with all our love and care. To show our affection, we shower the infant with clothes, toys, and other gifts. As a matter of fact, gifts are also bestowed upon the to-be mother from the time she is carrying the child itself. Friends, relatives, and well-wishers use the period prior to the baby being born to show their love and concern; pregnancy gifts are given and taken – and there is a general feeling of happiness all around.

So, when there in a new arrival in the family, it is like the culmination of a long wait. All the friends, families, and acquaintances of the parents fall over one another to show their love and affection to the new person. And what better way to show that one cares than through newborn gift? Designer baby clothes, baby boy clothes, and baby girl clothes are some of the most popular items that are gifted to celebrate such occasions.

Designer baby clothes are quite alright; however a more practical gesture would be to gift baby blankets to the newborn. These blankets – meant for newborns and toddlers – are most often made of the best of materials. Wrapping the new born with one such blanket would resemble surrounding it with our love and care.

The baby blankets are best as gift items because of a number of reasons. First and foremost, these keep the new born warm and comfortable. The texture of these blankets are soft to cater to the specialized needs of the newborns. The designs are quite elegant; moreover, the satin trimmings that are a part of many of these blankets and wraps make them all the more attractive to one and all. People giving these gifts are as much happy as the new and proud parents receiving the same.

There are a host of categories in baby blankets to choose from. There are those blankets that can be used for wrapping the infant while taking it outdoors. Then there are the bed time blankets that would help in putting the baby to sleep. The swaddling blankets and the play mats are the two other categories that can be mentioned in this context. Many of the designers are creating special wraps for little girls and little boys as well.

The soft touches and elegant designs often make these blankets a part and parcel of the growing up years of the baby, so much so that it gets quite attached to its blanket as it grows up. There are many instances wherein the baby gets attached to its blanket; it feels so comfortable in its layers that it becomes quite difficult to comfort it without the same.

To conclude, it can be said that baby blankets are practical, useful, handy, stylish and can be kept as keepsakes for a long tine. So, whether you want to go to a shower thrown for the new one or have been invited for a birthday party of a toddler, taking baby blankets could turn out to be just the right decision.

By: Adrienne McGrory

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

New parent gift is given by the friends & family members of newly formed parents and is the best way to shower your love & affection for them & to make them feel very special. Learn more on Mummy gifts & Pregnancy gifts



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Wednesday, March 18, 2009

We love blankets!

Three examples of Scottish tartan.Image via Wikipedia

What is so special about blankets?

Can you imagine your life without a blanket? How miserable it would be if you didn't have one to sit on at the picnic or cover yourself when it's a cold winter or autumn day. Each of us had its own blanket as baby and probably still has it at home as a sign of the beautiful time that we can't remember. In Indian culture blankets have even special meaning as they are tied to the tradition of trade, and are part of their lives. Many people love them so much that even though they are made of materials machine-washable they pay much attention to wash them in hands. And even special 'how to wash your blanket' guides are written

Blankets have been a source of warmth and comfort for thousands of years. They distinguish from sheets by their thickness. This rectangular piece of material derived its name probably from Edmund Blanket, a 14th century clothier and wool and Member of Parliament from Bristol, who is buried in St Stephen's Church (Bristol).

Blankets vary not only in shapes, colors and prizes ( cheap blankets and more expensive one) but aspecially in materials, usage and thickness. And also even in nations: from handmaking Native American blankets to tartan scottish blankets which are almost as much important for Scotchmen as scottish kilts and ghillie brogues. We have fleece and wool blankets, tartan, black and colourful one. We use them for covering our bodies when we are cold, and to cover our beds as a decoration bed throw. Only by changing the pattern design of our bed blanket we can give ourselves a totally new bedroom image. At the picnic they protect our clothes from grass and mud stains, also after the rain (it might be for example a waterproof picnic blanket). The Native Americans even use their blankets to pay off debts, to show gratitude, or to indicate status. It's indispensable element of equipment for horse riders (horses warming jacket) and firemen (as a furnishing protection; foam blanket).





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Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Kilted Warriors


I've found some nice image - image of kilted warriors.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

The kilt in other Celtic nations

Although not a traditional component of national dress outside Scotland, the kilt has become recently popular in the other Celtic nations as a sign of Celtic identity.[8] Kilts and tartans can therefore also be seen in Wales, Cornwall, the Isle of Man, Brittany, Galicia in Spain, the Minho region in the North of Portugal, as well as parts of England, particularly the North East. Nowadays with Welsh nationalism on the rise and a resurgence of Welsh national pride, the kilt (Welsh: Cilt)[citation needed]. Although they are generally seen these days in formal settings like weddings, there has been an increase in the number of people wearing their kilt to a rugby or football match, paired with a jersey rather than a formal jacket[citation needed].

The St David's Tartan or brithwe Dewi Sant is one of the most popular tartans in Wales, but individual family tartans are being produced, despite there being no evidence that the Welsh (or any other Celtic nation for that matter) traditionally used tartan to identify families. Williams, Jones, Thomas, Evans, and Davies are among the most popular tartans and common names in Wales. The Welsh National tartan was designed by D.M. Richards in 1967 to demonstrate Wales' connection with the greater Celtic world. Its colours (green, red, and white) are the colours of the Welsh national flag.

There are currently 12 Breton tartans officially recorded in the Scottish tartan registries. The Breton tartans are: Brittany National (Breton National), Brittany Walking, Lead it Of, and further 9 county tartans (Kerne, Leon, Tregor, Gwened, Dol, St Malo, Rennes, Nantes, St Brieuc)[9].

There are 2 Galician tartans recorded in the Scottish registries: Galicia and National Gallaecia. There is historical evidence of the use of tartan and kilt in Galicia up to the 18th century[10].

The Irish kilt

Starting with Dál Riata, the Scots and the Irish have been closely entwined peoples.

Though the origins of the Irish kilt continue to be a subject of debate, current evidence suggests that the kilt itself originated in the Scottish Highlands and Isles and was adopted by Irish nationalists at the turn of the 20th century as a symbol of Celtic identity. [5]

A garment that has often been mistaken for the kilt in early depictions is the Irish 'Lein-croich', a long tunic traditionally made from solid colour cloth, with black, saffron and green being the most widely used colours. Solid coloured Irish kilts were first adopted for use by the Irish Regiments serving in the British Army, but they could often be seen in late 19th and early 20th century photos in Ireland especially at political and musical gatherings, as the kilt was adopted as a symbol of Gaelic nationalism in Ireland during this period. [6] Tweed kilts were also not uncommon in both Scotland and Ireland and have been popular with sportsmen, fishermen, and hunters.

Many "Irish County" tartans were designed by Polly Wittering, first produced in 1996 by the House of Edgar, of Perth in Scotland. Marton Mills in West Yorkshire produced a competing "Irish County Crest Collection" based on the colours from Irish county crests, resulting in tartans that are considered aesthetically questionable by many traditionalists. There are also a number of "Irish District" tartans most of which are recent designs by Lochcarron of Scotland. The Ulster tartan is one of the oldest registered Irish tartans. It was found by a farmer, W.G. Dixon, in County Londonderry in 1956 as he uncovered pieces of clothing made from the design. The Belfast Museum and Art Gallery dated the material from between the 1590s to 1650s. Its exact origins are unknown, but it is likely that came from a Scottish pioneer during the beginning of the Ulster plantation period when the Scots first came in great numbers to Ulster. There are other generic Irish tartans including the Irish National, St. Patrick's, Tara, and Clodagh. Some Irish family tartans have been appearing over the years, although these are few at the moment more are being created. O'Brien, Sullivan, Murphy, Fitzpatrick, and Forde are fairly common examples of Irish family tartans.

In present day Ireland the kilt is still seen very much as being primarily Scottish, and the current crop of county and district tartans is largely unknown in Ireland and indeed difficult to obtain, having been designed and marketed primarily for the Irish-American market. As they have been neither designed nor manufactured in Ireland itself it is questionable whether they can be strictly described as Irish. In the book District Tartans by Gordon Teall of Teallach and Philip D Smith Jr (ISBN 0 85683 085 2) only three tartans are identified as being distinctly Irish; these are Ulster, Tara, and Clodagh. As noted above the Ulster tartan originates from around 1590–1650 and is probably Scottish in origin.[7] The Tara was first noted around 1880 and was originally called Murphy. The Clodagh has an earliest date of 1971 with uncertainty as to its original designer or first appearance.

Day-to-day kilt wearing is rarely if ever encountered. Within the world of Irish dancing the boy's kilt has been largely abandoned, especially since the worldwide popularity of Riverdance and the revival and interest in Irish dancing generally. There are exceptions to these trends in Ireland. A vibrant piping scene in Ireland means that there are many kilted bands throughout the whole of Ireland, particularly in the north of the island. The majority of these bands wear tartan kilts, the solid colour saffron kilt being almost exclusively the preserve of the pipe bands of the Republic's Defence Forces and the British Army's Irish regiments.

Styles of kilt wear

Kilt worn with the Argyll jacket, and belt.

Today most Scotsmen regard the kilt as formal dress or ceremonial national dress. Although there are still a few people who wear the kilt daily, it is generally owned or hired to be worn at weddings or other formal occasions, much the same way as top hat and tails are in England or tuxedos in America, and may be worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. For formal wear, the kilt is usually worn with a Prince Charlie or an Argyll jacket. (Commercial suppliers have now produced equivalent jackets with Irish and Welsh themed styling.)

The kilt is also used for parades by groups such as the Scouts, and in many places the kilt is seen in force at Highland games and pipe band championships as well as being worn at Scottish country dances and ceilidhs.

Certain regiments/units of the British Army and armies of other Commonwealth nations (including Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa) still continue to wear the kilt as part of dress or duty uniform, though they have not been used in combat since 1940. Uniforms in which the kilt is worn include Ceremonial Dress, Service Dress, and Barracks Dress. The kilt is considered appropriate for ceremonial parades, office duties, less formal parades, walking out, mess dinners, and classroom instruction/band practice. Ceremonial kilts have also been developed for the U.S. Marine Corps, and the pipe and drum bands of the U.S. Coast Guard and the U.S. Air Force.

In recent years, the kilt has also become increasingly common in Scotland and around the world for casual wear, for example with the Jacobite shirt. It is not uncommon to see the kilt worn at Irish pubs in the US, and it is becoming somewhat less rare to see them in the workplace.[4] Casual use of the kilt dressed down with lace-up boots or moccasins, and with tee shirts or golf shirts, is becoming increasingly more familiar at Highland Games. The kilt is associated with a sense of Scottish national pride and will often be seen being worn, along with a football top, when members of the Tartan Army are watching a football or rugby match. The small ornamental Sgian Dubh dagger is often omitted where security concerns are paramount (for example, they are not allowed on commercial aircraft). For the same reasons, the traditional Sgian Dubh is sometimes substituted by a wooden or plastic alternative, as its use is now largely ornamental (with only the hilt showing over the top of the hose).

Kilt accessories

The Scottish kilt is usually worn with kilt hose (woollen socks), turned down at the knee, often with garter flashes, and a sporran (Gaelic for "purse": a type of pouch), which hangs around the waist from a chain or leather strap. This may be plain or embossed leather, or decorated with sealskin, fur, or polished metal plating.

Other common accessories, depending on the formality of the context, include

* belt (usually with embossed buckle)
* jacket (of various traditional designs)
* sgian dubh (Gaelic: "black knife": a small sheathed knife worn in the top of the right hose)
* Ghillie brogues

Kilt care

As the kilt is made of wool, it should not simply be cleaned in a washing machine along with other laundry. Although the cloth is pre-shrunk, a washing machine would spoil the pleats and the kilt would need to be pressed. Instead, there are two main methods by which a kilt can be laundered: dry cleaning and hand laundering in cold or lukewarm water.

Expert recommendations differ on the better of these two methods. Tewksbury and Stuehmeyer, in The Art of Kiltmaking, advise strongly against having the garment dry cleaned, stating that "dry cleaning leaves a subtle residue on the kilt" and, as a result, it "will soil more easily after it has been dry-cleaned", but Matthew Newsome, Curator of the Scottish Tartans Museum in North Carolina (USA), states that "it is best to dry clean" the kilt, feeling that the kilt does not come into direct contact with the skin for very long and thus will not readily soil.

In between wearings, the kilt should first be aired out and then hung in a closet. One way to hang the kilt is to use a skirt hanger with large clasps. The kilt is first folded twice in half along the waist line. Then the skirt hanger is used to clasp the top of the kilt before it is hung in the closet. If moths are a problem, it can be hung with a cedar cache or strips of cedar wood.

Occasionally, the pleats may need to be re-pressed and this requires care. The authors of The Art of Kiltmaking advise that the pleats should be basted down before pressing so as to keep the pleats as straight as possible from the bottom of the fell to the bottom of the kilt, thus preserving the look of the sett when the kilt is worn.

Design and construction part4

Pleating and stitching
Pleating to the stripe

A kilt can be pleated with either box or knife pleats. A knife pleat is a simple fold, while the box pleat is bulkier, consisting of two knife pleats back-to-back. Knife pleats are the most common in modern civilian kilts. Regimental traditions vary. The Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders use box pleats, while the Black Watch make their kilts of the same tartan with knife pleats. These traditions were also passed on to affiliated regiments in the Commonwealth, and were retained in successor battalions to these regiments in the amalgamated Royal Regiment of Scotland.

Pleats can be arranged relative to the pattern in two ways. In pleating to the stripe, a vertical stripe is selected and the fabric is folded so that this stripe runs down the center of each pleat. The result is that along the back and sides of the kilt horizontal bands appear which look different from the front than from the back. This is often called military pleating because it is the style adopted by many military regiments. It is also widely used by pipe bands.
Pleating to the sett

In pleating to the sett the fabric is folded so that the pattern of the sett is repeated all around the kilt (especially in the waistband). This is done by taking up one full sett in each pleat, or two full setts if they are small. This causes the kilt to look much the same from both front and back.

Any pleat is characterized by depth and width. The portion of the pleat that protrudes under the overlying pleat is the size or width. The pleat width is selected based on the size of the sett and the amount of fabric to be used in constructing the kilt, and will generally vary from about 1/2" to about 3/4".

The depth is the part of the pleat which is folded under the overlying pleat. It depends solely on the size of the tartan sett even when pleating to the stripe, since the sett determines the spacing of the stripes.

The number of pleats used in making the kilt depends upon how much material is to be used in constructing the garment and upon the size of the sett.

The pleats across the fell are tapered slightly since the wearer's waist will be narrower than his hips and the pleats are usually stitched down either by machine or by hand.
Highland dancer. Note that the action of the kilt is dependent on the way the kilt is constructed. A dancer's kilt with traditional velvet vest is shown here.

In Highland dancing, it is easy to see the effect of the stitching on the action of the kilt. The kilt hugs the dancer's body from the waist down to the hipline and, from there, in response to the dancer's movements, it breaks sharply out. The way the kilt moves in response to the dance steps is an important part of the dance. If the pleats were not stitched down in this portion of the kilt, the action, or movement, would be quite different.

Design and construction part3

Measurements

Although low quality kilts can be obtained in standard sizes, a quality kilt is tailored to the individual proportions of the wearer. At least three measurements, the waist, hips, and length of the kilt, are usually required. Sometimes the rise (distance above the waist) or the fall (distance from waistline to the widest part of the hips) is also required.
Stitching on the fell of a kilt

A properly made kilt, when buckled on the tightest holes of the straps, should not be so loose that the wearer can easily twist the kilt around the body, nor should it be so tight that it causes "scalloping" of the fabric where it is buckled.

Additionally, the length of the kilt when buckled at the waist should reach a point no lower than halfway across the kneecap nor higher than about an inch above it.

Design and construction part2

Setts (tartan patterns)

One of the most distinctive features of the authentic Scots kilt is the tartan pattern, or sett, it exhibits. The association of particular patterns with individual clans and families can be traced back perhaps one or two centuries. It was only in the Victorian era (19th century) that the system of named tartans we know today began to be systematically recorded and formalized, mostly by weaving companies for mercantile purposes. Up until this point, highland tartans held regional associations rather than being identified with any particular clan. Today there are also tartans for districts, counties, societies and corporations. There are also setts for States and Provinces, schools and universities, sporting activities, individuals, and commemorative and simple generic patterns that anybody can wear. See History of the kilt for the process by which these associations came about.

Setts are always arranged horizontally and vertically, never diagonally (except when adapted for ladies' skirts). They are specified by their thread counts, the sequence of colours and their units of width. As an example, the Wallace tartan has a thread count given as "K/4 R32 K32 Y/4" (K is black, R is red, and Y is yellow). This means that 4 units of black thread will be succeeded by 32 units of red, etc., in both the warp and the weft. Typically, the units are the actual number of threads, but as long as the proportions are maintained, the resulting pattern will be the same. This thread count also includes a pivot point indicated by the slash between the colour and thread number. The weaver is supposed to reverse the weaving sequence at the pivot point to create a mirror image of the pattern. This is called a symmetrical tartan. Some tartans, like Buchanan, are asymmetrical, which means they do not have a pivot point. The weaver weaves the sequence all the way through and then starts at the beginning again for the next sett.

Setts are further characterized by their size, the number of inches (or centimetres) in one full repeat. The size of a given sett depends not only on the number of threads in the repeat, but also on the weight of the fabric. This is so because the heavier the fabric the thicker the threads will be, and thus the same number of threads of a heavier weight fabric will occupy more space. The colours given in the thread count are specified as in heraldry, although tartan patterns are not heraldic. The exact shade which is used is a matter of artistic freedom and will vary from one fabric mill to another as well as in dye lot to another within the same mill. Tartans are commercially woven in four standard colour variations that describe the overall tone. "Ancient" or "Old" colours may be characterized by a slightly faded look intended to resemble the vegetable dyes that were once used, although in some cases "Old" simply identifies a tartan that was in use before the current one. Ancient greens and blues are lighter while reds appear orange. "Modern" colours are bright and show off modern aniline dyeing methods. The colours are bright red, dark hunter green, and usually navy blue. "Weathered" or "Reproduction" colours simulate the look of older cloth weathered by the elements. Greens turn to light brown, blues become gray, and reds are a deeper wine colour. The last colour variation is "Muted" which tends toward earth tones. The greens are olive, blues are slate blue, and red is an even deeper wine colour. This means that of the approximately 7,000 registered tartans available there are four possible colour variations for each, resulting in nearly 30,000 tartans.[citation needed]

Setts are registered with the Scottish Tartans Authority which maintains a collection of fabric samples characterized by name and thread count. In all, there are approximately 5000 registered tartans.[citation needed] Although many tartans are added every year, most of the registered patterns available today were created in the 19th century by commercial weavers who had a large variety of colours to work with. The rise of Highland romanticism and the growing Anglicization of Scottish culture by the Victorians at the time led to registering tartans with clan names. Before that, most of these patterns were more connected to geographical regions than to any clan. There is therefore nothing symbolic about the colours, and nothing about the patterns is a reflection of the status of the wearer.

Design and construction part1

Fabrics

The typical kilt as seen at modern Highland games events is made of twill woven worsted wool. The twill weave used for kilts is a 2-2 type, meaning that each weft thread passes over and under two warp threads at a time. The result is a distinctive diagonal weave pattern in the fabric which is called the twill line. This kind of twill, when woven according to a given colour pattern, or sett (see below), is called tartan. In contrast, the Irish kilt traditionally was made from solid colour cloth, with saffron or green being the most widely used colours. Kilting fabric weights are given in ounces per yard and run from the very heavy regimental worsted of approximately 18–22 oz. down to a light worsted of about 10–11 oz. The most common weights for kilts are 13 oz. and 16 oz. The heavier weights are more appropriate for cooler weather, while the lighter weights would tend to be selected for warmer weather or for active use, such as Highland dancing. Some patterns are available in only a few weights.

A modern kilt for a typical adult uses about 6–8 yards of single-width (about 26–30 inches) or about 3–4 yards of double-width (about 54–60 inches) tartan fabric. Double width fabric is woven so that the pattern exactly matches on the selvage. The kilt is usually made without a hem because a hem would make the garment too bulky and cause it to hang incorrectly. The exact amount of fabric needed depends upon several factors including the size of the sett, the number of pleats put into the garment, and the size of the person. For a full kilt, 8 yards of fabric would be used regardless of size and the number of pleats and depth of pleat would be adjusted according to their size. For a very large waist, it may be necessary to use 9 yards of cloth.

history of the kilt

The history of the kilt stretches back to at least late 16th century Scotland. However, the nationalism of that tradition is relatively recent. It was only with the Romantic Revival of the early 19th century that the highland kilt was adopted by Lowlanders and the Scottish Diaspora as a symbol of national identity. People from other countries with Celtic connections, some Irish, Cornish, Welsh and Manx, have also adopted tartan kilts in recent times, although to a lesser degree.

The kilt first appeared as the great kilt, a full length garment whose upper half could be worn as a cloak draped over the shoulder, or brought up over head as a cloak. The small kilt or walking kilt (similar to the 'modern' kilt) did not develop until the late 17th or early 18th century, and is essentially the bottom half of the great kilt.

The Scottish kilt

The Scottish kilt displays uniqueness of design, construction, and convention which differentiate it from other garments fitting the general description. It is a tailored garment that is wrapped around the wearer's body at the natural waist (between the lowest rib and the hip) starting from one side (usually the wearer's left), around the front and back and across the front again to the opposite side. The fastenings consist of straps and buckles on both ends, the strap on the inside end usually passing through a slit in the waistband to be buckled on the outside; alternatively it may remain inside the waistband and be buckled inside.

The kilt covers the body from the waist down to just above the knees. The overlapping layers in front are called "aprons" and are flat; the single layer of fabric around the sides and back is pleated. A kilt pin is fastened to the front apron on the free corner (but is not passed through the layer below). Underwear may or may not be worn, as the wearer prefers but in some circumstances underwear is prohibited by military regulations[citation needed].

Organizations that sanction and grade the competitions in Highland dancing and bagpiping all have rules governing acceptable attire for the competitors. These rules specify that the kilt is to be worn (except that in the national dances, the female competitors will be wearing the Aboyne dress)

Forms of the Kilt

The name 'kilt' is applied to a range of garments:

* the traditional Scottish garment, either in its historical form, or in the modern adaptation now usual in Scotland (cf. History of the kilt), usually in a tartan pattern
* the Irish kilt, based on the Scottish garment but traditionally made in a single (solid) colour [1]
* variants of the Scottish kilt adopted in other Celtic nations, such as the Welsh cilt and the Cornish cilt
* other skirt-like garments designed for men, but more or less different in structure from the Scottish kilt, including "Contemporary kilts"
* certain types of pleated wrapover skirt worn as school uniform by girls.

According to the OED, the noun derives from a verb to kilt, originally meaning "to gird up; to tuck up (the skirts) round the body", itself of Scandinavian origin.

What is kilt?

The kilt is a knee-length garment with pleats at the rear, originating in the traditional dress of men and boys in the Scottish Highlands of the 16th century. Since the 19th century it has been associated with the wider culture of Scotland in general, or with Celtic (and more specifically Gaelic) heritage elsewhere. It is most often made of woollen cloth in a tartan pattern.

Though the Scottish kilt is most often worn mainly on formal occasions or at Highland Games and sports events, it has also been adapted as an item of fashionable informal, and formal, male clothing in recent years.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Monday, January 26, 2009

How to Wear a Kilt

'An Irishman goes to the local pub to celebrate St. Patrick's Day, like he does every day, and gets wasted out of his mind. He stumbles outside when the bartender tells him that he is had enough, but he can barely walk. So he leans up against a tree, where he passes out. A few minutes later, a couple of fine lassies go walking by. One says to the other one, "Do you think they wear anything under those kilts?" She admits that she does not know. So they go to check it out. She lifts up the kilt and sees him in all his glory. As they replace the kilt and get ready to walk away, an idea enters one of their heads. "Give me your blue hair ribbon," she says. Reluctantly, she hands it over. She goes back over to the Irishman, lifts up the kilt, and ties the ribbon to him. They walk away laughing.

A few hours later, the drunk gets up to take a piss. He stands up, walks over to the bushes, hikes up his kilt, looks down and sees the blue ribbon. He thinks for a minute and says, "To be perfectly honest, I do not know how you got away, and I do not know what you did, and I do not know who you did it to, but I am sure glad to see that you got first prize!".

The vast majority of Scotsmen still choose to wear nothing beneath their kilts, according to a survey out today. The survey of men north of the border revealed that 69 per cent of kilt-wearers prefer to "go commando".
Of the remainder, 14 per cent said they wore boxers and 10 per cent chose briefs - with 7 per cent admitting to falling into the rather ambiguous "other" category. One man admitted wearing a thong with a Batman motif. Researchers found that a large number of Scotsmen often made up their minds on the basis of how formal the occasion was. Many preferred to wear underwear for occasions such as weddings, while on less formal outings such as rugby matches they went without.

What about you? Do you where anything under your kilt? That is just your top secret but what to do with all those who want to get that information from you?

What do you usually answer to a curious ones when asked the most popular and 'favourite' question: What do you wear under your kilt? If you often have nothing to say or just to shy to replay maybe it is time to stand in front of the mirror and try some of those propositions of an intelligent responses:
How badly do you want to know?
How warm are your hands?
Me mother once told me a real lady would not ask. She was right, God bless 'er. My Scottish pride.
On a good day, lipstick.
Play your cards right and you can find out.
Tell me madam , would you go jogging without a bra? If so, where do you jog and when?

Sorry, I am a bit shy and not much good with words. Give me your hand...
Talcum powder.
So which one do you like the most? Remember to answer with full confidence and right dose of humor!

By: Caroline Anderson

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